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[🇧🇩] Textile & RMG Industry of Bangladesh

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[🇧🇩] Textile & RMG Industry of Bangladesh
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US reciprocal tariff
Home textile exporters fear decline in purchase orders

Shuvonkar KarmokarDhaka
Published: 19 Jul 2025, 08: 17

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Over 90 per cent of the exports and imports take place though Chittagong Port. Prothom Alo

Home textile has long been among the top five export products of Bangladesh. After the Covid-19 fallout, the sector became the country’s second-largest export earner in 2021–22 fiscal year.

However, rising inflation due to the Russia-Ukraine war dealt a heavy blow to the industry, resulting in two consecutive years of declining exports. In the 2024–25 fiscal year, the sector showed a slight recovery.

According to the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), Bangladesh exported home textile products worth USD 870 million in the last fiscal year, up by 2.42 per cent from the previous year.

Like the apparel sector, the United States remains the single largest market for home textile exports, accounting for nearly 17 per cent of total shipments last year.

The United States recently imposed an additional 35 per cent reciprocal tariff on Bangladeshi products, set to take effect from 1 August. This is on top of a 10 per cent reciprocal tariff already in place for goods from all countries since three months ago.

Negotiations are underway between Dhaka and Washington to reduce the new 35 per cent tariff.

Against the backdrop, home textile traders are fearing a significant drop in orders from the US market if the additional tariff is not slashed. According to them, Bangladesh has already lagged behind in home textile competitiveness due to different issues, including sharp increases in gas prices, and high-interest bank loans. Now, even a 5 per cent higher reciprocal tariff compared to competitors would bring down purchase orders from the US, which could ripple into the European market as well.

Home textile products include bed sheets, pillow covers, curtains, cushions, and terry towels.

Bangladesh currently exports these items to 131 countries, while the major markets are the US, India, Germany, France, the UK, and Canada. Although the sector has around 150 factories, only 50–60 are now exporting products. Even among operational units, many are struggling with low order volumes.

Shamsuddin Towels has been involved in home textile exports since 1990. Located in Feni BSCIC (Bangladesh Small and Cottage Industries Corporation), the factory has a monthly production capacity of 70 tonnes of towels. Due to a lack of orders, around 40 tonnes of its capacity remains idle each month.

“After the 10 per cent reciprocal tariff took effect in April, our US clients began reducing orders,” said Moinuddin Ahmed, the company’s managing director. “If the reciprocal tariff is not brought down from 35 per cent, we will have to remain satisfied with the EU market only.”

Following the pandemic, demand for home textiles surged. Bangladesh’s exports jumped from USD 760 million in 2019–20 fiscal year to USD 1.62 billion in FY 2021–22. But the Russia-Ukraine war reversed the momentum, and exports declined in FY 2022–23.

According to the EPB data, Bangladesh exported USD 150 million worth of home textile products to the US market in FY 2024–25.

Speaking to Prothom Alo, M Shahadat Hossain, former chairman of the Bangladesh Terry Towel and Linen Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BTTLMEA), said, “Last year, there was no export from my own factory for one month and 23 days due to gas shortage. The gas supply has slightly improved recently, but the reciprocal tariff issue now worries the businesses. If Bangladeshi goods face even a 2–3 per cent higher tariff than our competitors, our US exports will fall sharply.”​
 

Bangladesh’s apparel exports to the EU rise in January-May
Moinul Haque with Saddam Hossain 20 July, 2025, 00:03

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New Age file photo

The export of readymade garments from Bangladesh to the European Union experienced robust growth of 17.8 per cent to $8.97 billion in the first five months of this year, according to Eurostat, the statistical office of the EU.

The earnings from the EU, the largest export destination of Bangladeshi exporters, were $7.61 billion in the January-May period of 2024.

Knitwear remained the country’s leading product category, increasing 20.2 per cent to $5.18 billion, while woven exports grew by 14.9 per cent to $3.79 billion.

During this five-month stretch, Bangladesh also outperformed China in knitwear shipments to the EU.

However, the RMG export witnessed a sharp decline of 10.5 per cent to $1.43 billion in a single month of May of this year, which was $1.59 billion in the same month of 2024.

According to the Eurostat data, the region imported RMG items worth $36.82 billion in January-May of 2025, which was 12.3 per cent higher than $32.79 billion in the same period of 2024.

During the period, knitwear imports increased by 14.7 per cent to $18.44 billion, while woven apparel grew by 10 per cent to $18.38 billion from the region.

The single-month drop of Bangladesh in May 2025 contrasted with the robust growth seen earlier in the year, including a remarkable 60.8 per cent surge in January.

Industry insiders said that the decline might be due to inventory adjustments or a softening in demand for Bangladeshi garments across EU markets.

Among the other notable players, China, the EU’s largest apparel supplier, continued its recovery, with total exports rising 17.1 per cent year-on-year to $9.04 billion in the January–May period.

Knitwear exports led the growth, increasing by 24.3 per cent to $4.67 billion, while woven exports rose by 10.4 per cent to $4.37 billion.

India, meanwhile, posted the highest growth among top suppliers, witnessed a 19.1 per cent year-on-year growth to $2.38 billion in the first five months of 2025.

This consistent monthly performance underscores India’s growing appeal as a diversified sourcing destination for EU buyers.

Vietnam’s apparel exports to the EU increased 15.7 per cent to $1.69 billion during the January–May period.

Pakistan posted a 20 per cent rise in exports, reaching $1.63 billion, with knitwear and woven apparel growing by 20.5 per cent and 19.6 per cent respectively.

Cambodia saw the fastest growth, with exports soaring 30.3 per cent to $1.77 billion.

In contrast, Turkey was the only major supplier to register a decline in the first five months of the year.

Its apparel exports to the EU fell by 5.8 per cent to $3.59 billion, reflecting possible supply-side constraints or weakening demand for Turkish garments in the European market.

Speaking to New Age, Inamul Haq Khan, senior vice-president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association, said that the scenario of exports and orders are normal.New age products

‘Most probably, the holidays of Eid-ul-Fitr affected the export of May. We are in good position at EU and hopefully, we could sustain it,’ he added.

He also stated that the factories are receiving sufficient purchase orders, which suggests promising potential for the coming years.

‘Even we are optimistic about US market despite tariff slam,’ he added, saying that the buyers have trust on Bangladesh’s efficiency, capacity, and ethical manufacturing.

In 2024, Bangladesh exported RMG items worth $19.77 billion, up from $18.85 billion in 2023, according to Eurostat data.​
 

Bonded warehouse needs automation for expansion and efficiency

Wasi Ahmed
Published :
Jul 23, 2025 00:11
Updated :
Jul 23, 2025 00:11

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Expansion of the existing bonded warehouse facility for export-oriented industries has been under discussion for quite some time. Given its pivotal role in ensuring uninterrupted availability of raw materials for manufacturing export goods, the importance of bonded warehouse cannot be overstated. Over the decades, the system has served as a crucial pillar for the country's export growth, especially for the readymade garments (RMG) sector. However, despite its clear merits, the system has also shown vulnerabilities that call for significant reforms-chiefly, in the areas of management, transparency and oversight.

In this context, recent newspaper reports indicate that the government has renewed its interest in digitising the bonded warehouse system. Preparatory steps have reportedly been taken to this end. Years ago, the National Board of Revenue (NBR) had earlier formed a committee to propose amendments to relevant sections of the Customs Act to support automation of bond management. The committee submitted its report, suggesting a legislative and regulatory framework necessary for full-scale automation.

The NBR first undertook a project to automate the bonded warehouse system in 2017, originally targeted for completion by June 2021. Due to unsatisfactory progress, the project's timeline was extended until June 2023. However, whether the implementation has kept pace with the extended timeline remains unclear.

The bonded warehouse facility in Bangladesh emerged as a substitute for the Duty Drawback system in the late 1980s. Its inception, though promising, was accompanied with concerns about operational efficiency and susceptibility to misuse. Primarily introduced to support the garment sector, the system enabled exporters to import raw and packing materials without paying customs duties upfront, provided these materials were used in the production of exported goods. This provision significantly eased cash flow constraints for exporters and allowed them to remain competitive in global markets.

Along with back-to-back Letters of Credit (L/Cs), the bonded warehouse system helped transform Bangladesh's apparel industry into a global export powerhouse. Yet, from the beginning, the system lacked robust mechanisms to prevent abuse. Customs officials were supposed to maintain a 'passbook' that recorded all imported materials and tracked their subsequent use in exports. In theory, this was to ensure both accountability and transparency. In practice, however, these objectives have often not been realised.

Over the years, the bonded warehouse facility has been dubbed by critics a "happy hunting ground" for unscrupulous actors. Despite the existence of rules and oversight mechanisms, allegations persist that raw materials imported duty-free are frequently diverted to the local market. The pilferage not only compromises the integrity of the export system but also creates unfair competition for domestic producers.

It is against this backdrop that the push for digitising the bond management process has gained urgency. Automation is expected to bring the much-needed transparency, reduce manual errors, and curtail opportunities for manipulation. Nevertheless, reports until recently suggested that progress on the automation front remained slow and fragmented. The involvement of multiple stakeholders-exporters, the Bangladesh Export Processing Zones Authority (BEPZA) and the Bangladesh Bank (BB)-adds layers of complexity to the implementation process.

Although the RMG sector continues to be the primary beneficiary of the bonded warehouse facility, there is a compelling case for extending this facility to other prospective export-oriented sectors. Industries such as pharmaceuticals, leather, frozen foods and light engineering also rely heavily on imported raw materials. Many of these sectors have been long-time aspirants for inclusion under the bonded system, as it would significantly reduce their cost burden caused by long lead times and high working capital requirements.

In this context, automation could serve as a game-changer. A digitised bond management system would not only curb misuse but also build confidence in the integrity of the process, encouraging the NBR to widen its scope. More sectors coming under this umbrella would ultimately strengthen the country's overall export base.

However, transitioning from a largely manual system to a fully digital one will not be without its challenges. Given the deeply entrenched manual processes, teething problems are to be expected. These may include resistance from users unfamiliar with digital tools, gaps in digital literacy and the need for strong coordination among various government and private stakeholders.

To mitigate these challenges, a well-structured trial phase is crucial. Rather than adopting a piecemeal approach, the authorities should consider piloting the system on a limited scale. This would allow time to identify bottlenecks, collect feedback, and make necessary adjustments before a broader rollout. Effective training and capacity building for all stakeholders-especially customs officials and exporters-will also be essential to ensure a smooth transition.

Looking forward, the government must treat the automation of the bonded warehouse system as a priority reform. With Bangladesh set to graduate from its Least Developed Country (LDC) status and diversify its export base, efficient and transparent export facilitation mechanisms will be vital.

By embracing digitisation and expanding the scope of the facility to emerging export sectors, the country can further enhance its global trade competitiveness and lay the foundation for a more inclusive and robust export regime.​
 

US tariff hike begins to bite before time
Apparel exporters feel pricing pressure from European buyers
Most US buyers pause in placing new orders amid tariff uncertainty


Jasim Uddin
Published :
Jul 26, 2025 23:32
Updated :
Jul 26, 2025 23:32

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Bangladeshi apparel exporters are getting under fresh pricing pressure from European buyers under shadows of a predeclared steep US tariff hike as they increasingly shift focus to the European Union in quest of new orders to fill production gaps, industry-insiders say.

Most US buyers are refraining from placing new orders due to the uncertainty surrounding the potential tariff rises, prompting manufacturers to turn more actively to the EU market.

Industry people have said European buyers are taking advantage of the situation, attempting to lower product prices as thousands of Bangladeshi exporters approach them in a scramble for orders.

"The share of orders from US buyers has fallen to about 50 per cent. To bridge this gap, apparel exporters are now exploring opportunities with EU buyers," says S.M. Majedur Rahim, Director at Giant Group.

"Even when US buyers are placing orders, the volumes are small. Some have already offered lower prices for repeat orders, citing tariff pressure. It's unfair to expect exporters to bear the cost of tariffs," he adds.

Major EU retailers such as H&M and Inditex -- who also have significant business in the US -- have reportedly reduced their order volumes by 10 to 20 per cent out of fears surrounding the oncoming US tariffs.

"There's growing uncertainty among buyers with exposure to the US market regarding the outcome of ongoing tariff negotiations. A 35-percent reciprocal tariff on Bangladeshi exports to the US is set to take effect from 1 August," says Majedur Rahim.

"European buyers are viewing this as an opportunity to renegotiate and reduce apparel prices -- even some have already done so," he further notes.

According to data from the National Board of Revenue (NBR), 2,377 Bangladeshi firms exported to the US in FY25. Of these, 801 depend on the US for more than 50 per cent of their total exports, making them particularly vulnerable.

Collectively, these companies exported $6.62 billion worth of goods globally in the last fiscal year (FY2024-25), of which $5.05 billion -- or 58 per cent of Bangladesh's total exports -- were to the US. Bangladesh exports nearly $10 billion worth of goods to the United States annually, including apparel, leather, plastic, and agro-products.

EU buyers trying to capitalise on tariff pressure: "One of my buyers from the Netherlands, who used to purchase garments at $3 per unit, has now offered a price that is 25-30-cent lower per unit, citing Trump-era tariff policies," said Fazlee Shamim Ehsan, CEO of Fatullah Apparels.

"I couldn't accept the order at that price. The total value of the order was \$750,000. Losing the deal has made it difficult to keep the factory running," he added.

The United States is the single-largest export destination for Bangladeshi garments. However, exporters had earlier warned that the impact of US tariff hikes could spill over into Europe -- the largest trade bloc.

"Due to the new US tariff policy, inflation has already risen on that market, and buyers have started reducing their apparel orders," Ehsan observed.

He further noted, "The ripple effects of the new US tariffs have begun to influence European buyers as well. Some of them are now offering lower prices than before."

When US-bound RMG exports suffer, it will impact other markets as well, since buyers often source from one country for multiple destinations, says Shovon Islam, Managing Director of Sparrow Group, adding: "The consequences will cascade."

Echoing Shovon's concerns, the country manager of a European apparel brand, speaking on condition of anonymity, said, "If the tariff issue is not resolved in Bangladesh's favour, it could reduce our business opportunities here."

He further stated, "Although the US market accounts for less than 10 per cent of our total sales, it would no longer be a viable business case for us to produce goods for them from Bangladesh. We may have to consider alternative sourcing options."

Traditionally, he added, it takes at least three years to develop a vendor.

The head of business development at PDS Group-the largest multinational buying house in Bangladesh-also speaking on condition of anonymity, said, "Some of our EU customers are now asking for price reductions on new orders."

He added that EU buyers are taking advantage of the situation, being aware of the global market scenario and the installed capacity of the Bangladeshi apparel industry.

Officials at the buying house further noted that orders from some promising non-traditional markets -- such as India and South Korea -- are also shrinking. This is due to factors that include non-tariff barriers in India and local political as well as global economic challenges in South Korea.

Exporters also fear tariff impact could hurt market competitiveness.

President of BGMEA Mahmud Hasan Khan Babu says that if an additional 35-percent tariff is imposed, US buyers are likely to shift to alternative sourcing destinations unless Bangladeshi exporters agree to offer discounts.

However, entrepreneurs argue that offering a 35-percent discount would make it extremely difficult to sustain business operations.

The BGMEA President further states, "If Bangladesh faces higher tariff rates than countries like Vietnam, India, and Pakistan, it will not bode well for our export sector."

The main concern for Bangladeshi apparel exporters is that rival countries such as Vietnam, Indonesia, India and Pakistan enjoy significantly lower tariff rates on the US market.

As a result, Bangladesh risks losing work orders to these competitors, potentially putting millions of jobs at risk and raising fears of labour unrest in the sector.

Currently, Bangladesh exports to the US at an average tariff rate of 15.5 per cent. If the proposed 35-percent reciprocal tariff is finally imposed, the total tariff burden would rise to an uphill 50.5 per cent.​
 

Problems facing textile mills

Editorial
Published :
Jul 29, 2025 00:23
Updated :
Jul 29, 2025 00:23

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Any major industry develops concurrently allowing the opportunity of growth of allied or backward linkage industries. The readymade garment (RMG) industry has also been behind the emergence of such source industries. Textile mills in this country had seen many ups and downs and before RMG took off, their fortunes plummeted. In fact, local textile mills made a turnaround when they started supplying raw materials like knit fabric and woven fabric to the country's burgeoning RMG industry. Now, the happy days seem to be over with local textiles mills failing to meet the RMG demand due to a number of critical factors. Production disruption is certainly the number one issue. But the mills are not doing it deliberately; it is the direct consequence of crisis of natural gas. They are helplessly looking at the declining orders for their materials and growing import from other countries.

In such an uncertain and to some extent uneconomic environment, import of knit fabric has surged by 32.18 per cent to 0.51 million tonnes in the last fiscal year. Similarly, import of woven fabric also rose by 16.12 per cent to 0.62 million tonnes in the previous fiscal of 2023-24. Yarn import also saw a rise by 13.35 per cent. It is also interesting that the country also imported 8.35 million bales of cotton last fiscal compared with 7.75 million bales in the fiscal 2023-24. This is an indication that the mills had their preparation to go about the business as usual but circumstances beyond their control have suddenly disrupted the situation. The local textile mills have also been facing another adversity in the form of a slash in cash incentives. According to the president of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), cash-incentive support is virtually non-existent and exporters feel discouraged to claim the facility involving a lengthy process, not to mention the 'harassment'.

Business does not tolerate administrative impudence in this regime of global trade. There are alternative sources available. That exactly has happened and the buyers, moreover, have insisted on import of fabrics from China because of reliability in timely supply. In this context, India's aggressive 'dumping rate' on its fabrics can be an example of how a government promotes the business of that country. It is quite clear that at a crunch time, some desperate measures were needed to promote businesses. Here the government is taking the reverse course.

Now both China and India are set to take away orders for fabrics ---both woven and knit---from Bangladesh textile mills. Here the foreign buyers' opinions are also proving decisive. Clearly, the prospect for the local textile mills does not look particularly bright. At a time Trump's reciprocal tariff has thrown the world's business in turmoil, there was a need to be on guard against any lapses at the domestic level. Now the textile mills may have to pay a heavier price than they would need if only a steady fuel supply could be ensured. It is the time when the challenge before industries is to survive no matter if the profit is low. If business suffers to the point where garment factories move to foreign countries for their source materials, it also bodes ill for the country's main export good.​
 

Bangladesh unveils first large-scale water reuse facility in RMG sector

FE ONLINE REPORT
Published :
Jul 30, 2025 18:47
Updated :
Jul 30, 2025 18:47

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Bangladesh has launched its first large-scale Water Reuse and Improved Wastewater Management Demonstration plant at Fakir Knitwears Ltd. in Narayanganj. The initiative marks a significant step toward reducing freshwater extraction and industrial pollution in the country’s crucial readymade garment (RMG) sector.

The project—co-hosted by Primark, Fakir Knitwears Ltd., and the World Bank’s 2030 Water Resources Group—aims to reduce groundwater use by 30 per cent, supporting both Bangladesh’s Sustainability Water Roadmap 2030 and the UN Sustainable Development Goal 6 (Clean Water and Sanitation).

The state-of-the-art facility will enable the reuse of 438,000 cubic meters of water annually, leading to a 22 per cent reduction in total production water consumption. It has been tested for commercial and technical viability by a global consortium including Primark, H&M Group, and Panta Rei, with support from the UK Government’s SMEP Programme and UNCTAD.

“This facility comes at a time when over 90% of water bodies near industrial areas in Bangladesh are classified as severely polluted,” said Lewys Isaac, representative of Primark, addressing the project launching ceremony at Fakir Knitwears Ltd. “This model provides a pathway to move away from such pollution and towards circular water use.”

Ziaur Rahman, Regional Country Manager of H&M, added, “To build a sustainable environment, we must all work together in unison. Collaboration is key.”

Managing Director of Fakir Group, Fakir Akhtaruzzaman, said, “This initiative reflects our commitment to responsible industrial growth. It will protect water resources for future generations and set a benchmark for others to follow.”

The inaugural ceremony was attended by Robiul Alam, Joint Secretary of the Ministry of Water Resources, as the chief guest. Fakir Mashfiquzzaman Fabi, Director of Fakir Knitwears Ltd., presided over the event. Special guests included Lutful Ahmed, Additional Director General of the Department of Environment, and Dr. Mohammad Lutfur Rahman, Director of the Water Resources Planning Organization (WARPO).

Representatives from BGMEA, BKMEA, the French Development Bank (AFD), KfW Development Bank, and various international development partners were present, signalling strong institutional and industry-wide support.

The project is also the first major demonstration under the National Alliance for Water Reuse and Recycling, formed in May 2025 by the Government of Bangladesh, the World Bank, and WARPO. The alliance aims to scale sustainable water use practices across the country’s export-oriented industries.

The demonstration facility aligns with several national policies and strategies, including the Bangladesh Water Act 2013, the National Water Policy 1999, and the Bangladesh Delta Plan 2100. It is expected to influence broader adoption of water reuse technologies across the industrial sector.

Besides improving environmental outcomes, the project is anticipated to generate green employment opportunities for engineers, technicians, and factory staff through the deployment of advanced water treatment systems.

Industry experts view this development as a replicable and scalable model that strengthens Bangladesh’s position as a leader in sustainable and responsible manufacturing in the global apparel value chain.​
 

Tariff tensions shake up sourcing map
BD may face setback as US fashion brands shift focus to emerging rivals


Monira Munni
Published :
Jul 31, 2025 12:55
Updated :
Jul 31, 2025 12:55

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Rising tariff and trade tensions under the Trump administration are driving US fashion companies to look beyond their traditional apparel-sourcing bases-China, Vietnam, and Bangladesh.

Instead, countries like Indonesia, India, and Cambodia are emerging as the new front-runners in the shifting global supply chain, according to the 2025 Fashion Industry Benchmarking Study, released on Tuesday.

More than 60 per cent of surveyed US fashion executives plan to expand sourcing from these three emerging players over the next two years.

While Bangladesh remains a key low-cost supplier, especially for basic apparel categories, concerns about future trade restrictions and heavy reliance on Chinese textiles are holding back more substantial expansion, the study revealed.

US fashion companies that are directly affected by the Trump administration's escalating tariffs are considering Indonesia, India, and Cambodia as the most promising sourcing destinations, overtaking three traditional suppliers, including Bangladesh, according to the latest industry study.

"Respondents generally believe that these countries have already developed considerable apparel production capacity and can serve as immediate alternatives to the traditional top three suppliers -- China, Vietnam and Bangladesh," the study noted.

Regarding Bangladesh, around 53 per cent of respondents expressed an interest in expanding apparel sourcing from the country over the next two years, similar to 48 per cent in the 2024 survey.

However, there are mounting concerns that apparel imports from Bangladesh may face future US trade restrictions, driven by its rising trade surplus with the US and a perceived overdependence on Chinese raw textile inputs.

"These concerns appear to hold US fashion companies back from substantially increasing their apparel sourcing from Bangladesh in the context of sourcing diversification and reducing 'China exposure'," the report stated.

On July 7, US President Donald Trump officially notified Bangladesh of a flat 35-percent tariff to be imposed on all Bangladeshi exports.

Previously, on April 2, the US had announced reciprocal tariffs on several countries, including a 37-percent duty on Bangladeshi goods.

However, this was temporarily replaced by a 10-percent flat rate, which was extended until August 1 after expiring on July 9.

Despite the challenges, Bangladesh's share of US apparel imports rose to approximately 10.6 per cent in the first five months of 2025, up from 9.2 per cent during the same period in 2024.

In contrast, Indonesia, India, and Cambodia together accounted for 18.5 per cent of US apparel imports in the same period, compared to 17.1 per cent a year earlier.

"These countries also present relatively lower sourcing risks compared to China, making them attractive options for fashion companies aiming to mitigate supply chain vulnerabilities," the study added.

The report also noted that US fashion firms still view Bangladesh as a reliable destination for low-cost, high-volume basics, such as knit cotton shirts and trousers. However, concerns remain around social and environmental compliance risks.

The twelfth edition of the annual survey was jointly conducted by the United States Fashion Industry Association (USFIA) and the University of Delaware.

It covered executives from 25 leading US fashion brands, retailers, importers, and wholesalers, including several of the largest brands in the country, between April and June 2025.

Tariffs are already affecting operations, the report warned. Over two-thirds of companies surveyed have delayed or cancelled orders.

Suppliers, forced to absorb part of the tariff costs, are now at risk of financial distress or closure.

More than 70 per cent of respondents said higher tariffs have increased sourcing costs, reduced profit margins, and driven up consumer prices. Nearly 50 per cent reported declining sales, and 22 per cent confirmed layoffs in their workforce.

Despite the upheaval, US companies continue to pursue supply chain diversification. In 2025, apparel was sourced from 46 countries, with 60 per cent of respondents indicating plans to expand sourcing, excluding China.

Over 60 per cent of respondents allocated more than 30 per cent of their apparel sourcing to Vietnam and Bangladesh combined this year, up from just one-third in 2024.

At the same time, it has become increasingly common for companies to allocate more than 10 per cent of their sourcing to India, Cambodia, and Indonesia, signalling not only improved production capacity but also their growing importance as long-term supply partners in the global apparel value chain.

When asked, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) President Mahmud Hasan Khan said each big buyer has their own country risk analysis and business cannot be shifted from Bangladesh overnight.

The competition from Indonesia, India and Cambodia could be a big challenge for Bangladesh if the tariff gaps go higher for Bangladesh than others, he said.

He added that existing internal issues, including high cost of doing business and poor infrastructural bottlenecks, are not addressed timely.​
 

Tariff tensions shake up sourcing map
BD may face setback as US fashion brands shift focus to emerging rivals


Monira Munni
Published :
Jul 31, 2025 12:55
Updated :
Jul 31, 2025 12:55

View attachment 20898

Rising tariff and trade tensions under the Trump administration are driving US fashion companies to look beyond their traditional apparel-sourcing bases-China, Vietnam, and Bangladesh.

Instead, countries like Indonesia, India, and Cambodia are emerging as the new front-runners in the shifting global supply chain, according to the 2025 Fashion Industry Benchmarking Study, released on Tuesday.

More than 60 per cent of surveyed US fashion executives plan to expand sourcing from these three emerging players over the next two years.

While Bangladesh remains a key low-cost supplier, especially for basic apparel categories, concerns about future trade restrictions and heavy reliance on Chinese textiles are holding back more substantial expansion, the study revealed.

US fashion companies that are directly affected by the Trump administration's escalating tariffs are considering Indonesia, India, and Cambodia as the most promising sourcing destinations, overtaking three traditional suppliers, including Bangladesh, according to the latest industry study.

"Respondents generally believe that these countries have already developed considerable apparel production capacity and can serve as immediate alternatives to the traditional top three suppliers -- China, Vietnam and Bangladesh," the study noted.

Regarding Bangladesh, around 53 per cent of respondents expressed an interest in expanding apparel sourcing from the country over the next two years, similar to 48 per cent in the 2024 survey.

However, there are mounting concerns that apparel imports from Bangladesh may face future US trade restrictions, driven by its rising trade surplus with the US and a perceived overdependence on Chinese raw textile inputs.

"These concerns appear to hold US fashion companies back from substantially increasing their apparel sourcing from Bangladesh in the context of sourcing diversification and reducing 'China exposure'," the report stated.

On July 7, US President Donald Trump officially notified Bangladesh of a flat 35-percent tariff to be imposed on all Bangladeshi exports.

Previously, on April 2, the US had announced reciprocal tariffs on several countries, including a 37-percent duty on Bangladeshi goods.

However, this was temporarily replaced by a 10-percent flat rate, which was extended until August 1 after expiring on July 9.

Despite the challenges, Bangladesh's share of US apparel imports rose to approximately 10.6 per cent in the first five months of 2025, up from 9.2 per cent during the same period in 2024.

In contrast, Indonesia, India, and Cambodia together accounted for 18.5 per cent of US apparel imports in the same period, compared to 17.1 per cent a year earlier.

"These countries also present relatively lower sourcing risks compared to China, making them attractive options for fashion companies aiming to mitigate supply chain vulnerabilities," the study added.

The report also noted that US fashion firms still view Bangladesh as a reliable destination for low-cost, high-volume basics, such as knit cotton shirts and trousers. However, concerns remain around social and environmental compliance risks.

The twelfth edition of the annual survey was jointly conducted by the United States Fashion Industry Association (USFIA) and the University of Delaware.

It covered executives from 25 leading US fashion brands, retailers, importers, and wholesalers, including several of the largest brands in the country, between April and June 2025.

Tariffs are already affecting operations, the report warned. Over two-thirds of companies surveyed have delayed or cancelled orders.

Suppliers, forced to absorb part of the tariff costs, are now at risk of financial distress or closure.

More than 70 per cent of respondents said higher tariffs have increased sourcing costs, reduced profit margins, and driven up consumer prices. Nearly 50 per cent reported declining sales, and 22 per cent confirmed layoffs in their workforce.

Despite the upheaval, US companies continue to pursue supply chain diversification. In 2025, apparel was sourced from 46 countries, with 60 per cent of respondents indicating plans to expand sourcing, excluding China.

Over 60 per cent of respondents allocated more than 30 per cent of their apparel sourcing to Vietnam and Bangladesh combined this year, up from just one-third in 2024.

At the same time, it has become increasingly common for companies to allocate more than 10 per cent of their sourcing to India, Cambodia, and Indonesia, signalling not only improved production capacity but also their growing importance as long-term supply partners in the global apparel value chain.

When asked, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) President Mahmud Hasan Khan said each big buyer has their own country risk analysis and business cannot be shifted from Bangladesh overnight.

The competition from Indonesia, India and Cambodia could be a big challenge for Bangladesh if the tariff gaps go higher for Bangladesh than others, he said.

He added that existing internal issues, including high cost of doing business and poor infrastructural bottlenecks, are not addressed timely.​

Competition from India and Indonesia is a non-issue (or less of an issue at the very least) when one considers the amount of factory shifts that are taking place from mainland China to avoid export tariffs to the US from China.

Neither India nor Indonesia has the labor cost advantage Bangladesh has on apparel and other things like Toys and Footwear. In the case of India, red tape is even more of a barrier for exports.

This is the elephant in the room no one wants to talk about, but is very real.
 
Competition from India and Indonesia is a non-issue (or less of an issue at the very least) when one considers the amount of factory shifts that are taking place from mainland China to avoid export tariffs to the US from China.

Neither India nor Indonesia has the labor cost advantage Bangladesh has on apparel and other things like Toys and Footwear. In the case of India, red tape is even more of a barrier for exports.

This is the elephant in the room no one wants to talk about, but is very real.
Good observation, Bilal bhai:)
 

Why the US tariff cut matters for Bangladesh’s apparel industry

SHARIF ZAHIR
Published :
Aug 01, 2025 19:05
Updated :
Aug 01, 2025 19:05

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The recent reduction in US tariffs on Bangladeshi apparel exports marks a significant turning point for our industry—and perhaps one of the most promising windows of opportunity we’ve seen in recent years.

Initially, the proposed 35 per cent tariff was nothing short of alarming. It threatened to undercut our competitiveness in our single most important export market. But thanks to timely diplomatic engagement and strong government efforts, the tariffs have now been reduced to around 20 per cent—a rate that, while still substantial, restores a degree of balance to the global trade playing field.

This revised rate allows us to remain competitive. At Ananta Apparels, which exports over $465 million annually—$170 million of which goes to the United States—we see this decision as a lifeline. Without this adjustment, the consequences could have been disastrous. Now, Insha’Allah, we are confident that we can continue serving our American partners without major disruption.

Some may argue that Bangladesh should shift its focus to other markets. But let us be clear: the US market is irreplaceable. It is vast, stable, and has been the foundation upon which much of the apparel success of countries like China and Vietnam has been built. Now that Chinese apparel faces tariffs exceeding 34 per cent—including the existing 30 per cent—we may be witnessing a reordering of global sourcing patterns. Bangladesh stands to benefit significantly.

To seize this opportunity, however, we must be ready. Bangladesh’s apparel industry is mature. We have decades of experience, deep-rooted infrastructure, and a growing capability in producing value-added goods. Where countries like China and Vietnam once dominated niche categories such as sportswear, performance apparel, and high-end outerwear, we now have a chance to step up and fill that gap.

But capitalising on this shift will require strategic thinking beyond the factory floor. Trade is no longer just about product and price—it is increasingly shaped by geopolitics and long-term policy alignment. For example, if part of a broader trade strategy involves importing LNG from the United States, I see that not as a liability but as a form of strategic engagement. The same applies to aircraft procurement. Boeing aircraft deliveries take at least six years. These are not transactional purchases; they reflect long-term diplomatic partnerships. Bangladesh’s decision to purchase 25 Boeing aircraft aligns with this broader vision, as do similar decisions by countries like India.

Even in agriculture, US products—whether corn, wheat, or cotton—tend to command a premium due to their quality. We have seen this in our operations. US cotton, while slightly more expensive, offers consistent and superior quality, making it ideal for premium garments and performance textiles.

What is even more relevant now is the US government’s new policy supporting its cotton farmers. American retailers are now eligible for duty waivers if they use at least 20 per cent US cotton in their garment sourcing. That means buyers can enjoy zero tariffs on a portion of their FOB value if US cotton is used. This is a game-changer—especially for Bangladesh, which can position itself as a high-quality, duty-advantaged sourcing destination if we align smartly with such programmes.

In short, the recent tariff reduction is not just a relief—it is an inflexion point. But to turn it into long-term growth, we must act decisively. That means improving value addition, strengthening compliance and sustainability standards, negotiating better trade facilitation, and deepening strategic ties with key partners such as the United States.

The future of our RMG sector will not be determined solely by volume—it will be shaped by our ability to adapt, align, and lead. The opportunity is here. The question is: are we ready to rise to it?

Sharif Zahir is the Managing Director of Ananta Apparels and Chairman of United Commercial Bank Limited.​
 

Bangladeshi makers get huge response at Texworld NYC
Bangladesh Sangbad Sangstha . Dhaka 01 August, 2025, 23:22

Bangladeshi companies witnessed huge responses from buyers at the ‘Texworld NYC 2025’, and the representatives of the companies were busy during the show with trade inquiries from USA and other countries.

Texworld NYC, Apparel Sourcing, and Home Textiles Sourcing - the largest textile and apparel sourcing shows on the East Coast - concluded successfully at the Javits Centre in New York City, USA, from July 23 to 25, said a press release on Friday.

The event hosted over 424 international exhibitors from 26 countries and emphasized ethical sourcing, sustainable fabrics, and innovation across the textile, apparel and home textile industries.

This summer’s exhibition featured a wide array of global exhibitors from major sourcing regions, offering attendees direct access to premium apparel and textiles.

From cutting-edge materials to sustainable sourcing solutions, the show floor was designed to empower industry professionals with the resources and connections needed to succeed in today’s fast-evolving global market.

Three Bangladeshi companies - 24/7 Sourcing Private Limited, GenXt International and Just James BD Ltd - took part in the exhibition, showcasing the country’s strengths in fashion apparel and denim.

Their participation underscored Bangladesh’s expanding footprint in the global textile industry, driven by a strong focus on innovation, quality and cost-effective manufacturing.

Bangladeshi exhibitors presented a diverse range of fashion products and joined leading manufacturing nations such as Pakistan, China, India, South Korea, Taiwan, Uzbekistan, Turkey, Vietnam and Sri Lanka on the global stage.

Bangladesh’s presence at Texworld NYC Summer 2025 reaffirmed its potential as a competitive and reliable sourcing destination, with a strong focus on sustainability, innovation, and high production standards.

Rakib, CEO of 24/7 Sourcing Pvt Ltd, said he was happy with the fair and glad to meet many buyers.

Rizvana Hredita, CEO of GenXt International, also shared that the fair went well and they were pleased with the buyer response.​
 

New tariff can be a gateway to a resilient export future: BGMEA
Staff Correspondent Dhaka
Updated: 02 Aug 2025, 19: 21

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Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) President Mahmud Hasan Khan Collected

Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) President Mahmud Hasan Khan welcomed the recent reduction in US tariffs on Bangladeshi exports, calling it a "critical relief" for the country’s apparel industry amid rising global competition.

At a press conference held today at the BGMEA conference room, the newly appointed president expressed gratitude to the interim government of Bangladesh, especially the commerce and security advisors, for their leadership during the tough negotiations.

Their teams helped Bangladesh avert what could have been a major crisis for our export sector, he noted.

The United States has reduced its additional import tariff on Bangladeshi products from 35 per cent to 20 per cent, bringing it closer to the rates imposed on Bangladesh's major competitors, including China (30 per cent) and India (25 per cent).

This adjustment creates a more balanced playing field for Bangladesh, he added.

The BGMEA chief highlighted that the journey to this outcome was fraught with challenges.

On 2 April, the US had announced a new tariff regime under the "Liberation Day Tariff," initially setting Bangladesh’s rate at 37 per cent, significantly higher than India’s 26 per cent and Pakistan’s 30 per cent. The proposed tariffs were to be implemented from 9 April, but were later deferred by 90 days following diplomatic engagements.

While the deferment allowed for further negotiations, uncertainty loomed until mid-July. On 2 July, when the US slashed Vietnam’s tariff from 46 per cent to 20 per cent, concerns deepened in Bangladesh, especially after an initial US offer of only a 2 per cent reduction for Bangladesh. Subsequent talks finally resulted in the recent adjustment.

He said throughout the negotiation period, BGMEA engaged with stakeholders, government bodies, and even began talks with US-based lobbying firms despite limited access due to ongoing NDAs between the two governments.

The government unofficially informed the private sector to engage lobbyists as the second round of talks between the US and Bangladesh authorities on 9-11 July saw little progress. Later, BGMEA started primary discussion with a lobbyist farm.

“The new 20 per cent additional tariff comes on top of the existing 16.5 per cent MFN duty, bringing the effective average rate to 36.5 per cent. However, an important exception has been made if at least 20 per cent of a product’s raw materials originate from the US — such as American cotton — the additional tariff may not apply to that portion of the product's value,” he said.

BGMEA President also added that Bangladesh must continue diplomatic talks to further reduce the tariff.

“We don’t have any room for complacency, since the US executive order indicates further negotiations with other countries are ongoing and may result in even lower tariffs for them. Bangladesh must continue diplomatic and trade talks to remain competitive.”

Khan called for renewed focus on backward linkage investments, design innovation, and product and market diversification.

“The US is not just our largest market — it’s a long-term trade partner. We are committed to deepening this partnership,” he added.

The BGMEA President urged the government to provide continued policy support, especially for small and medium-sized factories that are vulnerable to rising production costs.

“At a time when the industry is already struggling, the tariff increase will undoubtedly raise our production cost. The government must come forward especially ensuring that small and medium-sized factories that are vulnerable to rising production costs don’t get harmed.

“We hope all policy supports by the government will continue at the interest of industry and country as a whole, efficiency of all relevant offices including NBR will increase, customs-related policies will become industry-friendly, Chattogram port’s handing would be more efficient, and industries will get uninterrupted electricity and gas supplies,” the BGMEA President added.

He asserted that BGMEA will continue to provide data-driven insights and engage in regular consultations with stakeholders to enhance competitiveness.

“If we work together with a shared vision, this tariff can become the gateway to a stronger, more resilient export future for Bangladesh,” he concluded.​
 
Pran RFL one of the leading business houses in Bangladesh has taken over a textile mill situated in Rajshahi from BTMC. This particular textile mill got shut down 22 years ago. Currently, Pran RFL has created 2 thousand jobs in the factory but aiming at creating 12 thousand jobs in the future. Right now, the Rajshahi textile mill is producing various kinds of bags and shoes. This is a big news for Rajshahi.


 

RMG exports to US see 25pc growth in Jan-Jun
Staff Correspondent 06 August, 2025, 23:34

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Representational image. | New Age file photo

The readymade garment exports to the United States from Bangladesh witnessed a robust growth of 25.13 per cent to $4.25 billion in the first half of 2025, from January to June.

According to the latest data published by the US Office of Textiles and Apparel, Bangladeshi exporters exported RMG items worth $3.4 billion in the same period of 2024.

During the first half of 2025, Bangladesh outpaced almost all its major competitors in terms of export growth rates in the US — the country›s single largest export destination.

Exporters stated that the announcement of the revised US reciprocal tariff of 20 per cent was a positive signal for export earnings from the US.

They also stated that the shift of orders from China to Bangladesh, due to the trade war with the US, has accelerated exports.

In single month of June 2025, US imported RMG items worth $722.54 million from Bangladesh, a 45 per cent higher from $496.64 million in June of 2024.

According to the Otexa data, the North American country’s RMG imports from its global suppliers also witnessed a positive growth of 6.76 per cent to $38.15 billion in January-June of 2025, higher from $35.74 billion in the same period of 2024.

In terms of volume, Bangladeshi RMG exports to the US also experienced positive growth of 23.81 per cent to 1.37 billion square metres in H1 of 2025, up from 1.12 billion square metres in the same period in 2024.

As the third-largest supplier to the US, Bangladesh’s market share in the North American country stood at 10.03 per cent as of May 2025.

Amid the ongoing trade war between the US and China, Vietnam remained the top exporter for the past several months, surpassing China.

In January-June, Vietnam›s apparel exports grew by 17.97 per cent, reaching $7.76 billion, surpassing the $6.58 billion recorded in the first half of 2025. Vietnam held a market share of 19.79 per cent.

As the second-largest exporter, China exported apparel items worth $5.73 billion during H1 of 2025, representing a 16.14 per cent decline from $6.83 billion in the same period of 2024, and capturing a market share of 18.88 per cent.

Followed by Bangladesh, India secured the fourth position in the US market by exporting RMG items worth $2.84 billion in January-June of 2025, registering a positive growth of 16.26 per cent compared with that of $2.44 billion in the same period of 2024, with a market share of 6.23 per cent in the US market.

RMG exports from Indonesia and Cambodia were $2.25 billion and $1.99 billion in the first half of 2025, with a market share of 5.63 per cent and 5.11 per cent, respectively, making them the fifth and sixth largest RMG suppliers.

On July 31, the Trump administration revised the reciprocal tariff on Bangladeshi goods to 20 per cent, following a series of discussions.

Earlier, on July 8, it was declared 35 per cent, following the 37 per cent announced on April 2.

Talking to New Age, Inamul Haq Khan, senior vice president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association, said that the exports to US increased due to the shifting of orders from China.

‘China’s share and export at US market gradually declining due to trade war and tariff issues, and the orders are shifting to other manufacturing countries,’ he added.

He also said that as Bangladesh can manufacture shifting orders along with buyers’ confidence, exports are increasing.

Echoing a similar sentiment, former BGMEA director Mohiuddin Rubel said that US buyers have always trusted Bangladeshi products.

‘As Trump administration announced new tariff, we have opportunity to do more well in the coming years,’ he added.

If a similar situation persists for China, one day, Bangladesh could outpace them in market share in the US market, he added, urging adequate policy support from the government and manufacturers to focus on diversified and high-value products.

According to the OTEXA data, Bangladesh’s apparel exports to the US in 2024 were $7.34 billion, and in 2023, they were $7.29 billion.​
 

BGMEA, Amfori to collaborate on sustainability
Staff Correspondent 06 August, 2025, 23:31

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In a significant move towards sustainable development in Bangladesh’s readymade garment industry, the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association and the global business association Amfori have pledged to collaborate on building a more transparent and efficient supply chain.

In this regard, John Stellansson, head of Business Development and Network at Amfori, and BGMEA Acting president Inamul Haq Khan met on Wednesday at the BGMEA Complex in the capital, according to a press release.

Amfori is considered as a leading global business association dedicated to promoting sustainable trade.

It also supports companies worldwide in making their supply chains more ethical, transparent, and environmentally responsible.

According to the press release, the meeting focused on developing a harmonised standard to streamline sustainability practices and audit procedures in the apparel sector.

Sharing the new strategic approaches of Amfori, Stellansson emphasised the transfer of responsibility for sustainable development directly to suppliers and manufacturers.

He also said that the shift would enable factories and their brand partners better to evaluate both supply chain performance and lead times.

One of the initiative’s core objectives was to minimise audit duplication across the supply chain, thereby reducing financial and administrative burdens on manufacturers, he added.

He also stated that the company aimed to encourage producers to take on active and leadership roles in both social and environmental compliance processes.

BGMEA’s acting president Inamul Haq Khan (senior vice president) said that the BGMEA is committed to establishing an integrated sustainability framework for the sector.

He stressed the need for a unified audit structure to eliminate redundancy and enhance operational efficiency for the RMG producers.

He also lauded Amfori’s manufacturer-centered approach and expressed keen interest in collaborative efforts to boost industry-wide capacity, share knowledge, and identify opportunities for improvement within factories.

They also agreed that closer cooperation and knowledge exchange would be critical in making audit processes more effective, cost-efficient, and transparent.

They also consented to explore potential pilot programmes to identify productive areas of collaboration.​
 

Beximco Textiles may resume operations as Japanese company shows interest

bdnews24.com
Published :
Aug 08, 2025 00:18
Updated :
Aug 08, 2025 00:18

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Beximco Group’s Textiles and Apparel Division, BexTex, which has been closed amid financial pressure, may resume operations under a lease agreement with Japanese apparel firm Revival Project Limited.

The company has agreed to take over the factory as part of a government-backed initiative.

Beximco has issued a comfort letter supporting the lease arrangement.

Revival Project, which has prior experience in the apparel sector, plans to invest $20 million or around Tk 2.5 billion into the operation.

A tripartite agreement involving Revival Project, BexTex and lender Janata Bank is expected to be signed this August.

Though initially hesitant, Beximco is now on board to restart the unit through the lease deal.

Bangladesh Bank, Janata Bank and the government are working to provide policy support.

The labour and employment ministry is coordinating on behalf of the government.

A senior Bangladesh Bank official, speaking on condition of anonymity, told bdnews24.com: “The Japanese company has assured it will bring in capital at the time of purchase order.

“Details will be finalised when the agreement is signed.”

To ensure full financial transparency and loan repayment from export earnings, stakeholders say the Japanese firm may appoint Deloitte as auditor.​
 

Apparel exports to US surge to $4.25b in first six months of the year

Published :
Aug 08, 2025 15:20
Updated :
Aug 08, 2025 15:20

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From January-June this year, the US witnessed a modest increase in apparel imports, reaching $38.16 billion globally, reflecting a 6.74 per cent rise from the previous year.

Noteworthy changes in the number of units include a 4.26 per cent growth in SME and a 2.37 per cent increase in unit price.

Particularly, imports from Bangladesh surged to $4.25 billion, displaying a substantial growth rate of 25.12 per cent compared to the same period in 2024, according to a UNB report.

In the year 2025 May, Bangladesh's export to the US was US $547.42 million and on June 25 it is US $723.08 million, meaning growth is 32.09 per cent from May to June 2025, said Mohiuddin Rubel, former director, Brand BGMEA.​
 

Tariff math favours Bangladesh in shifting US trade landscape
The shift of the USA to reciprocal tariffs has shaken global trade. But for Bangladesh, it’s opened a rare window of opportunity


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When US President Donald J. Trump burst back onto the global trade stage, he brought with him a term that's now rattling old-school trade economists: reciprocal tariff. Think of it as "you charge us this much, we'll charge you the same"—a tit-for-tat pricing game that bypasses the World Trade Organization (WTO), the traditional referee of global trade rules.

While this move has left WTO purists in a daze, for some countries—Bangladesh included—there is a silver lining.

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After lengthy negotiations with the United States Trade Representative (USTR), the American government's chief trade negotiation body, Bangladesh has secured a 20 percent reciprocal tariff rate on its exports to the US. Add that to the existing 16.5 percent average US import duty, and you get a new effective tariff rate (ETR) of 36.5 percent, according to the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).

Sounds high? Perhaps. But it's all about comparison. In a world where competitors are being slapped with tariffs as high as 50-60 percent, 36.5 percent starts to look like a discount.

A COMPETITIVE EDGE

In 2024, Bangladesh held 9.3 percent of the $85 billion US apparel market, a figure that could now rise significantly. Why? Because the reciprocal tariff system affects different countries in dramatically different ways, and for Bangladesh, it happens to be largely favourable.

The government and local private-sector entrepreneurs are optimistic. The new tariff rate is much lower than what other competing countries such as Vietnam, India, and China are facing. They have already noted that the new ETR will help boost Bangladesh's exports to the US, as American clothing retailers and brands will prefer Bangladesh as a sourcing destination due to its competitive tariff edge.

AK Azad, managing director of Ha-Meem Group, a major garment exporter to the USA, said the reduction of the tariff is a relief for him.

However, his American business partners are demanding a share of the additional tariff burden, which is squeezing his profit further. "It will take more time to absorb the additional tariff by the importing companies in the USA," he said.

Mahmud Hasan Khan, president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association, is also hopeful that exports from the country will rise because of the tariff benefit.

"If the local suppliers are not aware, the international retailers and brands may put pressure on them to share a certain portion of the additional tariff," he said.

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Photo: Rajib Raihan

HOW WE FARE AGAINST COMPETITORS

Vietnam, Bangladesh's close competitor in the global apparel market, currently enjoys an 18.9 percent share of the US market and faces a similar 20 percent reciprocal tariff. But the devil is in the details.

Vietnam's export portfolio to the US consists largely of high-end, synthetic garments (activewear, skiwear, and outerwear), which already attract an average 32 percent US duty. Add the reciprocal tariff, and the effective tariff rate could easily exceed 50 percent.

Moreover, President Trump imposed an additional 40 percent tariff on garments found to be transshipped through Vietnam to avoid Chinese duties. Since Vietnam's garment sector relies heavily on Chinese raw materials, investment, and supply chains, this adds another layer of complexity and cost, potentially eroding its competitiveness.

India, another major competitor with a 5.9 percent market share in the US, has been hit the hardest. Trump slapped a staggering 50 percent rate on the country due to its continued import of Russian oil. That is the highest tariff rate among all countries in this new regime. Considering India's average tariff on garment items to the US, its ETR now stands at 66.5 percent.

Then there's China. The world's largest apparel supplier, with a 20.8 percent share of the US market, is facing a steep 55 percent ETR, which may climb higher as US-China tariff negotiations remain unresolved.

The East Asian economic superpower has been steadily losing ground in the American market since 2018, when Trump launched a trade war during his first term in office. Since then, countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam, Cambodia, Indonesia, Pakistan, and India have begun carving out bigger shares.

Indonesia faces a 19 percent reciprocal tariff, resulting in a 35.5 percent ETR, giving the country a comparatively advantageous position over Bangladesh.

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BANGLADESH'S SECRET WEAPON

What gives Bangladesh the edge? Cotton.

Its five top garment exports—trousers, knitted polo shirts, woven shirts and blouses, sweaters, and underwear—together account for 80 percent of its total apparel exports to the US. The concentration of cotton fibre in all these items is particularly high. And in the US tariff regime, cotton garments are treated far more leniently than synthetic ones.

This puts Bangladesh in direct contrast with Vietnam and China, who are more dependent on non-cotton and high-tariff products.

There's more. Under Trump's executive order, if an export item contains 20 percent US-origin content, such as American-grown cotton, the 20 percent reciprocal tariff is waived on that portion of the product's value.

Here's what that means: A $10 shirt made in Bangladesh using 20 percent US cotton will have the 20 percent reciprocal tariff applied to only $8 of its value, not the full $10. Some Bangladeshi exporters are already using up to 40 percent US cotton, meaning they'll enjoy even lower ETRs.

In the near future, there is a possibility of using more US content as Bangladesh has already agreed to import more American cotton and build warehouses for American cotton.

Exporters expect exports from Bangladesh to the US to grow because of this competitive edge.

THE ELEPHANT IN THE ROOM

Even with this competitive edge, a cloud looms over the celebrations: the US apparel market itself is shrinking.

"Just a few years ago, the US imported $105 billion worth of apparel annually. In 2024, that number dropped to $85 billion. And now, it could fall further, to $75 billion due to the higher tariff rate," said Mohammad Abdur Razzaque, chairman of the Research and Policy Integration for Development (RAPID).

No matter how favourable Bangladesh's tariff rate is, it won't matter if there are fewer orders coming in.

Before the introduction of the reciprocal tariff, the US's average import duty was 2.2 percent. The leap to 20 percent overnight is likely to fuel inflation, affecting consumers' purchasing power and leading to reduced spending.

The tariff burden, ultimately, falls on the consumer. Importers pay it initially, but it shows up in the price tag. As costs rise, American shoppers may scale back. And when retailers cut orders, even countries with favourable deals, like Bangladesh, feel the pain.

So where will all the surplus go?

The obvious answer is Europe. But that presents a new challenge: oversupply.

"Too many suppliers will compete in the same markets, and the European buyers may ask for price cuts because of unhealthy competition by the supplying countries," said Razzaque.

WHAT BANGLADESH TRADED FOR THE DEAL?

The reciprocal tariff agreement didn't come without strings attached.

Currently, the trade gap between the two countries is $6 billion, whereas Bangladesh exports goods worth $8.2 billion and imports goods worth $2 billion from the US.

To win a lower ETR, Bangladesh had to agree to a shopping list of US demands during negotiations, including buying more American goods—such as aircraft, wheat, soybeans, cotton, and other agricultural exports—to reduce the trade gap.

Bangladesh also agreed to open up its domestic market to US dairy, meat, and poultry industries, where local producers, especially small and medium enterprises, will now face stiff competition.

During the negotiation, the USTR also asked Bangladesh to reduce its dependence on China for procuring industrial raw materials—a tall order, considering China is the largest trading partner of Bangladesh. Local entrepreneurs import nearly $20 billion worth of goods a year from China.

Bangladesh is also set to undertake significant policy and regulatory reforms, including removing foreign ownership restrictions, streamlining investment approvals, and improving transparency for American investors.

The pending agreement is expected to broaden this engagement beyond apparel, into sectors such as agriculture, energy, aviation, and infrastructure.

Bangladesh will have to ratify several international agreements, including the Berne Convention (copyright), the Brussels Convention, the Budapest Treaty (patents), the Marrakesh Treaty (accessible books), the Singapore Treaty, the WIPO Copyright Treaty, the Patent Law Treaty, the Hague Agreement, and the Paris Convention, among others.

But the mood in Bangladesh is optimistic so far.

"This is a very good negotiation, and it is expected that the shipment of goods from Bangladesh will increase as the country has comparative tariff benefits over other countries," said Commerce Secretary Mahbubur Rahman, who was an integral part of the negotiation.

Apart from garments, the export of other goods—such as shoes and leather and leather goods—will also increase to the USA because of the lower tariff benefit, he also said.

The new reciprocal tariff regime of the world's largest economy presents a new phase of global economic diplomacy. In the end, it's a very delicate balancing act. Bangladesh has managed to turn a turbulent moment in US trade policy into a potential advantage. But it's a narrow path. The tariff rate may be lower, but the stakes are higher than ever.​
 

EXIT ROUTE ALLOWS US TARIFF DEDUCTION
Apparel exporters eye 'first sale' rule to boost competitiveness
Rule allows importer to pay 15-20pc lowered landed duty on product value


Jasim Uddin
Published :
Aug 12, 2025 00:41
Updated :
Aug 12, 2025 00:41

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Bangladeshi apparel exporters are exploring the 'First Sale' window of opportunity in the United States to help their buyers and retailers secure lower tariffs and thus enhance their export competitiveness on the high-duty US market.

In the American customs law, the first-sale rule allows an importer to pay 15-to 20-percent lowered landed duty through declared lowered value of goods based on the manufacturer's price through a multi-tiered transaction -- such as manufacturer to middleman to US importer -- rather than the final price paid by the US buyer.

Garment exporters in the know say this rule helps them avoid high tariffs. The rest of the price is paid as a research and development cost to the manufacturers, but this requires the involvement of another entity.

In a letter to the Ministry of Commerce, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) has noted that the first-sale method is becoming increasingly popular among US buyers. The letter also mentions that a recent survey found major retail groups, such as PVH, VF, Kontoor Brands, AEO, Kohl's, and JCPenney, source a significant portion of their total purchases through this duty-deduction conduit.

All top American retailers are using this first-sale marketing programme, according to a source. "It includes all of the retailers like Calvin Klein, GAP, Levi's, C&A, American Eagle, Ann Taylor, and so on. Walmart, Costco, and a few others also use it."

Industry leaders mention that among the high-value-product exporters to the US market, Sparrow Group, Hameem Group, Viyellatex Group and Standard Group are doing business under these rules.

Industry-insiders say this approach can significantly reduce the declared customs value, which in turn cuts import duties and landed costs for US buyers.

For example, if a manufacturer sells goods to a trading company at $10 per unit, and those goods are sent

through another entity of the manufacturer, the US government allows them to reduce duties under the first-sale rule, which would be calculated on $8 instead of $10.

The remaining $2 would be calculated and paid as a research and development cost. They note that the resulting duty savings can make US retail prices more competitive, improve importers' profit margins, and free up working capital.

However, they also caution that the first-sale option comes with strict requirements under US Customs and Border Protection (CBP) regulations.

The first sale must be a genuine transaction for export to the United States, and the buyer and the seller must be independent or demonstrate that the price reflects market value. Goods must remain essentially the same after the first sale, aside from minor handling or repackaging, and exporters must maintain a clear documentation trail, including contracts, invoices, payment records, and shipping documents, to prove eligibility.

The strings binding the duty benefit also provide that first-sale value must also be declared at the time of import, with supporting papers available for CBP review.

Exporters believe with proper documentation and transaction structuring, Bangladeshi manufacturers can leverage the first-sale rule to strengthen partnerships with US buyers and potentially secure more orders on the price-sensitive American retail market.

Talking to the Financial Express, Shovon Islam, Managing Director of the Sparrow Group, said, "We have been doing business for the last 12 years under First Sale rules. This helps our buyers to be more competitive as it allows them to pay a lower rate of landed duty."

Islam adds that all of their large and reputable buyers are doing business under First Sale rules. "However, the product should be a high-value item," he explains. "For example, the FOB price should be above $8."

He notes that companies with multinational operations can do this easily, with the rest of the value being paid as an R&D cost.

"Lowering the product landed duty depends on the product category and its value. Generally, 10 per cent to 15 per cent is standard, and 20 per cent is the absolute maximum slab," he mentions.

"It's being audited by USA customs and top 3rd-party Accounting Firms regularly," says Shovon Islam, a former director of BGMEA.

BGMEA raises concern over cash incentives for 'first-sale' exports

The BGMEA letter to the trade body carries concern over cash incentives for exports under the First-Sale method. It states that the main condition binding this process is that the factory receiving the purchase order must produce the goods in another factory before exporting.

President of BKMEA Mohammad Hatem told the FE that one of their largest exporters faced difficulties getting cash incentives after exporting under First-Sale rules, even though those goods were produced in another unit of that company.

The goods were manufactured in another unit after getting buyer's approval, he said, adding: "We urged the government to allow such exporters for cash incentives."

Hatem adds: the government should clarify the rules for getting cash incentives on first-sale exports, especially when an exporter has to produce goods in another unit of the company. "Otherwise, trading companies will try to get cash incentives."

According to the latest data from the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), Bangladesh's total exports to the United States came to $8.69 billion during the past July-June period -- a notable increase from $7.60 billion a year earlier. Apparel exports to the US in the last fiscal year were worth $7.54 billion, representing a 14-percent year-on-year growth.

The US market accounted for over 18per cent of Bangladesh's total export earnings of $48.28 billion in FY25.​
 

Should incentives continue for RMG sector?

FE
Published :
Aug 12, 2025 23:00
Updated :
Aug 12, 2025 23:00

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It cannot be denied that the country's highest hard currency earner through export, the Readymade Garment (RMG) sector, has, of late, come up against certain unforeseen headwinds. The recent tariff war launched by the US President Donald Trump is definitely one. However, after negotiations with the number one global economic and military power, the government's trade delegation could bring down, to some extent, the high tariff the US first imposed on its imports from Bangladesh. Even the reduced rate of tariff will still be way higher than what was before the imposition of this new US tariff regime. Needless to say, it is the apparel products that are to endure the impact of such tariff hike from a major export destination of the country's exports. But it is not only the US tariffs, the uncertainties due to the wars in the Middle East and in Ukraine in Europe, which is the largest destination of Bangladesh's apparel as well as other products, have added to the challenges. Various tariff and non-tariff barriers recently raised by the neighbouring India on Bangladesh's external trade have also been playing their part in putting Bangladesh's chief exportable items through their paces. Also, the post-2024 cuts on general export incentives of 1.0 per cent, local yarn incentive of 3 per cent and the cash incentives of 0.5 per cent to 20 per cent of export value provided to different sectors including the RMG, together militated against the competitiveness of the RMG products in the global market.

Now, what challenges the post-graduation realities would pose to the exports are raising new concerns. That is because, the preferences Bangladesh had so far been enjoying as one of the least developed countries (LDCs) from the Western importers may not apply when the country joins the developing nations' club after graduation. The good news is, recognising the domestic and external challenges that the RMG sector is currently facing, the interim government has decided to maintain the existing export incentives and cash assistance programme for 43 sectors from July to December of the current fiscal year (FY 2025-26). However, a central bank's circular issued on July 10 to this effect specified that the rates for export incentives and cash support provided to products in question shipped between July 1 and December 31 would vary from 0.30 per cent to 10 per cent depending on product category. Of course, this is lower than the maximum rate of 20 per cent that the same category of products had been enjoying pre-2024. Even so, the question remains whether these export incentives including cash assistance would continue during the second half of FY 26, that is from January 1 to June 30 of the next calendar year.

It is against this backdrop that the leaders of the RMG sector recently met with the finance ministry officials to reiterate their demands for restoring pre-2024 cash support, local yarn incentive and general export incentive until 2029 in accordance with the World Trade Organization (WTO) provisions. Being the premier export sector of the country, the apparel industry leaders' demands have definitely their merits. And the successive governments have also been extending various incentives and assistances so they can remain competitive in the international market. While being sensitive to their cause, it is also important to understand the limitations of any government to continue propping up a particular business sector indefinitely.

It is time the apparel sector came of age and stayed competitive in the global market on its on strength. Meanwhile, the government should also extend necessary policy as well as financial support to other prospective export sectors, if only to diversify the country's export basket.​
 

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